When I was a young backpacker, I developed an affection for the charming village of Rothenburg located in the Franconian region of Germany. Back then, some farms inside its ancient ramparts were still keeping a handful of livestock. Nowadays, those barns have been converted into hotels, their former animal inhabitants replaced by throngs of visitors, and Rothenburg seems to be turning more and more into a medieval-themed attraction.
However, Rothenburg remains Germany’s finest preserved walled town. Numerous visitors have sought out the hard-to-find "authentic Rothenburg." While there are several rivals (like Michelstadt, Miltenberg, Bamberg, Bad Windsheim, and Dinkelsbuhl), none can match up to this monarch of medieval German charm. Despite the throngs of tourists, inflated souvenir prices, and an almost indigestible local delicacy—a fried dough concoction known as a pastry specialty—Rothenburg retains its allure. Schneeball — "Snowball)," Rothenburg remains the top choice. Save yourself time and miles and be content with the victor.
Incidentally, there are multiple "Rothenburgs" scattered throughout Germany. Ensure you're headed for Rothenburg ob der Tauber (located beside the Tauber River), as travelers occasionally make the mistake of accidentally journeying to one of the less notable Rothenburgs instead.
During the Middle Ages, when cities like Berlin and Munich were merely small settlements along the roads, Rothenburg stood as Germany’s second largest metropolis, boasting an impressive populace of around 6,000 residents. Nowadays, it has transformed into the nation’s most captivating medieval destination, attracting numerous visitors while still maintaining its allure. The streets here encapsulate a millennium worth of rich history beneath their cobblestones.
To steer clear of the crowds that arrive early morning, I prefer staying overnight. With exceptions for occasional Saturdays and festival times when rooms can be scarce, securing accommodation isn’t difficult. After sundown, Rothenburg gives off an air of exclusivity as though it’s entirely yours. The silent cobblestone lanes under the silvery glow of the moon seem haunted by echoes from the battles of the Thirty Years' War resonating through battlements and bell towers.
A walking tour truly enlivens the city walls. If you're interested in exploring Rothenburg's more somber past, consider joining one of the tours provided by the local tourism bureau, or use my Rick Steves Audio Europe app for guidance. However, for an entertaining and engaging experience filled with medieval charm lasting about an hour, opt for the Night Watchman’s Tour instead. As this character acts much like a medieval version of Jerry Seinfeld, cracking jokes as he lights his lantern and guides visitors through nightly patrols, sharing vivid stories from everyday life long ago.
To get the finest vista of the town and its environs, ascend the Tower of the Town Hall. If you seek additional perspectives, take a leisurely walk along the ancient walls encircling the old part of town—a 1.5-mile trek that feels particularly historic either early in the morning or during twilight.
The Rothenburg's Medieval Crime and Punishment Museum, which offers explanations entirely in English, houses an array of sinister punitive devices used throughout history. While some guests find themselves horrified by these exhibits, others hope for a souvenir shop nearby.
St. Jacob's Church holds the single must-visit artistic marvel in town: an impressive 500-year-old altar created by Tilman Riemenschneider, often referred to as the Michelangelo of German woodworkers. To get a better look at this lifelike depiction of biblical narratives, ascend the steps located behind the organ. This work stands out as the finest example of wooden sculpture in all of Germany.
Caution: Rothenburg ranks among Germany’s premier destinations for shoppers. You can buy your items here and have them shipped elsewhere; consider this approach to save time. The town offers an array of appealing products such as intricate prints, detailed woodcarvings, elegant wine glasses, festive Christmas decorations, and traditional beer mugs. (Alright, I’ll confess—I’ve adorned my Christmas tree with several trinkets purchased in Rothenburg.)
The largest ornamental shop features a fantastic small museum dedicated to German Christmas traditions located upstairs. This distinctive exhibition goes beyond merely enticing visitors to make additional purchases; it offers insights into various aspects of holiday history. Here, you can explore antique ornaments from different eras, traditional Christmas-tree stands, miniature trees dispatched in boxes to World War I soldiers serving at the fronts, vintage advent calendars, and classic old-fashioned Christmas cards—all meticulously displayed with detailed explanations.
To enjoy the sounds of birds and experience the scent associated with cattle, venture into the scenic Tauber Valley. Follow a path that descends from the picturesque castle gardens of Rothenburg down to the charmingly slender, six-century-old Toppler Castle, which served as the summertime residence for Mayor Toppler during the 15th century. Despite being referred to as a castle, its layout resembles more of a multi-storied treehouse. It was constructed by the mayor to reassure residents about living beyond the crowded confines within the fortified walls of the city.
Starting from the mayor's residence, the path follows the course of the trout-rich Tauber River down to the tranquil hamlet of Detwang. This village predates Rothenburg and boasts a church featuring yet another striking Riemenschneider altar sculpture. For those wishing to explore more of the pastoral landscape—think ancient windmills, orchards heavy with apples, and free-ranging poultry—a bicycle rental offers an invigorating way to spend a leisurely few hours cycling through the riverside terrain.
At night, I revel in finding myself solitary amidst Rothenburg. Perched inside a verdant alcove within the town’s rampart, I trace the ancient stone masonry with my fingers and muse over how generations of diligent horse-drawn carriages etched channels into the cobblestones as gusts from historical events smoothed out timber-framed facades overhead. Pretending to cock a fictional crossbow, I direct an arrow towards the shadowy woodland encircling this place. (My apologies, dear Mayor.) There remains something comforting about being ensconced behind these safeguarding barriers even today; here, visitors from contemporary times intersect with those who journeyed through medieval eras long past.
(Rick Steves ( www.ricksteves.com He authors European guidebooks, presents travel programs on public television and radio, and arranges European tours. In this column, Rick explores some of his beloved destinations from the last twenty years. You can send an email to Rick at rick@ricksteves.com and subscribe to his page on Facebook.)
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