I am gently drifting calmly up above the hustle. Luxor The dusty streets were silent, broken only by the sporadic bursts from the burners of the hot air balloons.
Our pilot, captain Mahmoud, gently turns us around so we get an unbeatable God’s eye view reaching from the lush green corridor of the Nile To the craggy hills where the renowned Valley of the Kings lies hidden.
I spin around to see a mesmerizing display of a dozen balloons outlined against the glowing amber hue of the rising sun, glistening as it ascends above the skyline.
As Mahmoud brings the balloon down toward Earth, the support team springs into motion, clutching the basket to guarantee a smooth landing. They call out to one another as they gather and secure the fabric during its deflation, ensuring it doesn’t sustain damage from the uneven desert terrain.
Read more: The top activities to enjoy in Luxor
The captain says to me, "Observe us Egyptians in action; this is how the pyramids were constructed."
My airborne escapade is among multiple ground-oriented pursuits offered on a fresh cruise journey. Egypt is primarily defined by its major waterway, the Nile.
For the very first time, the tour operator Tui has broadened its river cruise options beyond Europe With its five-star all-inclusive Al Horeya (meaning freedom), featuring 72 staterooms, a rooftop swimming pool, and two hot tubs, this vessel is set to be joined by another ship in November 2025 for additional operations.
Before we set sail, I have some free time to visit Luxor.
After catching sight of the Valley of the Kings from an altitude of 1,500 feet, I later explore it with a feeling of amazement that these concealed marvels nestled far within the mountains were ever discovered.
As I near the black opening in the stone, my vision takes a second to adapt from the blinding sunlight to the dim lighting within the passageway that leads deep into the subterranean burial site of Ramses VI.
Read more: Is the Grand Egyptian Museum worthwhile to visit before it’s completely opened? What attractions are available – and what elements are still lacking?
The meticulously created scenes illustrating the journey of the divine monarch guide my gaze along the passage, causing my skin to tingle with the thrill that the initial discoverers might have felt when unearthing these relics from antiquity’s past.
As I delve into the tunnels housing the remains of the 62 pharaohs in the valley, the surreal imagery ranging from jackal-headed deities to the ankh symbol of life feels utterly otherworldly—almost like these designs were created by extraterrestrial beings using flying saucers instead of traditional tools.
I save the entrance to Tutankhamun's tomb for last and make my way through the brief passageway into the burial chamber where the young pharaoh was interred after his death at the age of 19 around 1323 BC, following a reign of merely a decade.
Read more: The individual, aged 26, was the first to complete the 550 km Sinai Trail in Egypt, assisted by the Bedouins.
His premature demise resulted in his interment within an unused chamber, which was inadvertently uncovered by the British Egyptologist Howard Carter in November 1922. This discovery occurred while Carter was digging into the sepulcher of Pharaoh Ramses VI, positioned immediately overhead.
Despite the numerous artifacts discovered in the tomb—such as Tutankhamun’s stunning gold funerary mask—which are awaiting relocation to a recently constructed $1 billion museum, his preserved corpse still rests within the burial chamber enclosed in a glass casing.
Instead of believing that I've incurred King Tut's curse by venturing into his burial site, I consider myself fortunate for being able to catch a view of his visage, preserved through the ages, gazing upon his chamber adorned in rich oranges, where the walls depict scenes of his journey to the afterlife without significant signs of deterioration.
Fortunately, my guide, Sarwat—one of our two accompanying Egyptologists—had suggested we begin at 6 am sharp to dodge the throngs of tourists. This way, we could relish exploring both the tomb and its imagery virtually undisturbed.
Sarwat tells me that the artists employed a mixture of stone dust and vegetable paste combined with egg whites to form a plaster layer for protecting the illustrations.
He states, "They were narrating the tales of the kings for the gods to peruse, ensuring their narratives endured forever."
Read more: How this rock climbing club from the Middle East is attracting more women to adventure sports
I head back to the Nile and hop aboard a traditional felucca sailboat, much like those employed by merchants through the ages, for a leisurely journey back to the Al Horeya where I enjoy a delightful meal of spicy chicken wraps at the fittingly named Felucca rooftop eatery.
The following day, I am left astounded by the sheer size and magnificence of the Karnak and Luxor temples.
Upon entering the main hall, I feel small beneath the 134 pillars that dominate the central area of Karnak, which are famously remembered from "The Spy Who Loved Me" where Roger Moore’s James Bond fights against Jaws. Just after an uneven scaffold falls, Bond makes a somewhat unjust comment: “Egyptian builders.”
However, at Karnak, the ancient architects left behind evidence of their architectural brilliance through large mud-brick ramps still standing beside the incomplete exterior walls, demonstrating how the massive stones were initially positioned.
The temple is connected to its Luxor equivalent via the ancient Avenue of the Sphinxes, an almost 5 millennia old pathway adorned with numerous sphinx statues featuring both humanoid and ram heads. This route was utilized during a ceremonial procession honoring the deities who were transported on boats by the high priests as they celebrated the sun god Amun-Re.
The primary entryway at Luxor was constructed under the reign of Ramses II, with his imposing statue overseeing the area.
It’s a brief ride back onto the boat docked next to the temple, marking our readiness for departure as we set off on our voyage up the Nile.
I sit under the shade of the ship’s top deck bar, a gentle breeze from the river acting as natural air conditioning, watching as the city landscape gives way to the green farmlands that the river creates all the way down this desert country.
The unhurried rhythm of life aboard ensures that I feel rejuvenated each morning, prepared to explore Egypt’s most comprehensive temple.
The final stop is Aswan During our trip, we will see the renowned dam, a testament to Egypt’s contemporary engineering prowess, along with a Nubian village to understand the traditional way of life in the southern part of the country.
Holding a beverage, I observe a farmer along the verdant riverside where sandy hills rise in the background. This scene instills an enhanced appreciation for the vital role this waterway plays in sustaining everyone within this nation, be they common laborers or legendary deities from olden myths.
Just as the ancient Greek historian Herodotus stated, "Egypt is the gift of the Nile," and my voyage aboard the Tui Al Horeya has been an ideal means to discover this treasure.
How to do it
Tui ( tui.co.uk ) provides a seven-night Legends of the Nile cruise aboard the Al Horeya for £1,799 per person (based on double occupancy), which includes everything plus gratuities. Transfers and flights from London Gatwick or Manchester to Luxor, Egypt, on April 17, 2025.
Read more: Where can one go during winter for sunny weather, beautiful shores, and zero jet lag?
The Independent stands out as the globe’s premier source of unbiased reporting, offering worldwide news, opinions, and insights tailored for those with independent thinking. With an extensive reach across various continents, we attract numerous globally distributed, open-minded people who trust our perspective and dedication to fostering constructive transformation. Today more than ever, our aim—to drive progress forward—remains crucially significant.
