The asparagus season has started in Germany, marking the unofficial arrival of spring.
No other vegetable captures the German imagination like white asparagus. They could talk endlessly about pairing it with either melted butter or hollandaise sauce, serving it alongside smoked ham or schnitzel, or enjoying it with potatoes that have been boiled whole or sliced, then pan-fried with bacon and onions.
There’s also discussion about whether you’re allowed to eat the shoots with your fingers or if you should use a fork and knife—though conventional etiquette insists that using your fingers isn’t bad form provided you dip and cleanse them in a small bowl of tepid water.
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When it comes to their preferred vegetables, Germans can unanimously agree that green asparagus pales in comparison to its white counterpart and might as well be disregarded.
White asparagus has a much subtler flavor," explained Sven Sperling, aged 54, savouring his inaugural meal of the season at the Jakobs-Hof asparagus restaurant located in Beelitz, which lies just outside Berlin. "This is truly unique; you can’t really draw parallels between this and green asparagus.
Beelitz stands out as one of the top areas in the nation known for growing asparagus. Located about 50 kilometers (31 miles) southwest of Germany’s main city, these farmers thrive thanks to what some call “white gold” – an allusion both to its color and its high cost. Early in the season, around early April, this delicacy can fetch prices as steep as €20 per kilogram (approximately US$22 for 2.2 pounds).
By the end of the season in June, the price might decrease to €10 per kilo. spargel, As it is known in German, will not lose its sense of luxury.
For Germans, white asparagus represents far more than merely sustenance—it embodies a lifestyle, according to Jürgen Jakobs, proprietor of the Jakobs-Hof restaurant, which also functions as a farm shop. He cultivates this prized vegetable across 25 hectares (61.7 acres) of his property.
"Consuming asparagus is a special occasion," Jakobs remarked during a recent discussion as he surveyed his land, observing Romanian employees hand-picking the spears from the earth.
He mentioned that asparagus marks the beginning of spring. It’s often featured during festive occasions like Easter, Mother's Day, and Whit Sunday," he explained. "Typically, this involves inviting relatives or close friends for a meal with an elaborately set table.
The love for this delicacy is renowned in Europe. The early Romans believed these vegetables had aphrodisiac properties and allegedly introduced them to Central Europe.
Initially, this delicacy was cultivated exclusively in monastery gardens, and only the nobility were permitted to enjoy it during the medieval period.
Only in the late 1800s did farmers begin cultivating asparagus in fields, thus increasing its accessibility to a broader audience; nevertheless, this veggie retains an air of exclusivity.
The shoots grow in sandy soil, giving them their distinctive sweet, nearly nutty flavor, according to Jakobs, whose family has been growing this vegetable for many years.
White asparagus develops beneath the ground, shielded under a plastic cover. Once exposed to sunlight, it transforms from white to purple, then green, and acquires a stronger, more bitter taste.
No one consumes more white asparagus than the Germans – with each person eating around three pounds annually. This adds up to a total yield of approximately 105,000 metric tonnes (103,000 tons) last year, based on data from Germany’s Federal Statistical Office.
The Germans do not ship out their white asparagus; instead, they consume it entirely within their country. However, they bring it in from nations such as Spain or Italy, where the primary focus is on exporting this crop. This imported asparagus predominantly ends up in grocery stores and tends to be cheaper compared to locally produced versions, though it lacks some of the refinement in taste according to Jakobs.
White asparagus is typically prepared by steaming it in water mixed with a tablespoon of sugar and a tablespoon of salt. Unlike its green counterpart, it must be peeled prior to cooking.
Asparagus also carries a social aspect since traditionally, the women of the household would spend hours together peeling the shoots, engaging in conversation, and relishing one another's company.
Today, certain upscale grocery shops offer pre-peeled asparagus. These pale stalks tend to be slightly more elongated and robust compared to regular green ones and are also quite low in calories.
Sperling remarked that nothing beats the genuine, traditional feel, as he concluded his serving of freshly cut asparagus prepared by Jakobs' crew mere hours ago.
"Purchasing it directly from the farm, peeling it at home, and enjoying the preparation with your loved ones during the weekend — nothing beats that experience,” he mentioned, complementing his statement with a wistful grin. He further reminisced that it simply embodies “memories of childhood.”
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The article initially appeared on the South China Morning Post (www.scmp.com), which is the premier source for news coverage of China and Asia.
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