While the Amalfi Coast is famous for its lemons, nearby Cilento boasts an abundance of eggplants, artichokes, and zucchini. The region also produces white figs—soft and delectably sweet. As I recall, these were precisely what a generous local farmer shared with my kids when we paused at a mountaintop town, awaiting mourners from a funeral procession below.
Though the Cilento region While perhaps not globally renowned, the health advantages associated with following a Mediterranean diet are indeed well-established. In the 1960s, the notion that elements like olive oil, close-knit family structures, and—let me cautiously add—red wine could contribute positively to one’s wellbeing was examined in an area named Cilento. Here, an American researcher named Ancel Keys resided in a village aptly named Pioppi—in which stands today as a modest museum—and conducted studies focusing on local culinary practices and customs. The inhabitants of this place were particularly recognized for their longevity and relatively relaxed lifestyles.
It's not solely because of good food that one might choose to leave Amalfi’s coast behind and travel south through Cilento—especially since the journey has been simplified with the new operation of Salerno Costa d'Amalfi Airport. At first glance, this stretch of shoreline does not resemble the dramatic cliffs characteristic of the Amalfi Coast. Amalfi .
Starting from Salerno, you encounter vast expanses grazed by buffaloes, interrupted solely by time-worn pillars emerging from the ruins of Greek temples in Paestum. The true comparison begins only when reaching Palinuro, where the verdant promontories drop sharply into the waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea.
Last summer, EasyJet became the first UK-based carrier to utilize Salerno’s newly opened international airport. The company plans to resume flights from London Gatwick starting in May. When you arrive, consider renting a vehicle in central Salerno since there aren’t numerous choices available at the airport just yet. As soon as you leave the urban area behind, the roads leading away from town bear little resemblance to the congested thoroughfares found along the Amalfi Coast.
In Cilento, UNESCO recognizes significant Greek and Roman ruins, starting with the archaeological area of Paestum as your initial destination. You'll have the opportunity to delve into these historical sites alongside only a few visitors. These include Doric temples dating back to the 5th century BCE, allowing for tranquil exploration amidst their intricately carved interior and exterior pillars.
Paestum is an ideal location for exploring Cilento’s culinary heritage and sampling famous buffalo mozzarella. A notable family upholding this region’s organic practices is the Pagano clan, owners of the Savoy Beach Hotel. Their two Michelin-starred establishment, Tre Olivi restaurant within the wellness hotel, serves innovative cuisine influenced by local ingredients, including delicacies like roasted suckling pig paired with figs and indigenous Vatolla onions.
The Paganos likewise own a winery in Paestum. San Salvatore 1988 , which yields the area’s finest bottles. At La Dispensa di San Salvatore, the Pagano family’s farm shop and eatery, we crafted pasta, shaping small bits of dough into ear-like orecchiette using our thumbs. Nearby is Tenuta Vannulo , an organic buffalo farm where guests can observe the creation of pristine mozzarella balls.
If you're seeking breathtaking, 70-meter-tall cliffs for a romantic setting, venture farther south to Palinuro. This area boasts dramatic promontories hiding enchanting hidden coves and caves. When at Spiaggia di Marinella, we questioned our idea of renting a pedal boat until observing several octogenarians joyfully navigating them. Despite the presence of amenities like umbrella rentals and dining options here, these do not overshadow the pristine beauty around—think rugged offshore islands against the skyline and untouched stretches of gleaming, silvery sands flanking both sides.
One tranquil morning, when the number of yachts was relatively low, we navigated our pedal boat around to the nearby cove called Buon Dormire. The sun had lightened pieces of driftwood scattered along an otherwise unreachable shoreline. Meanwhile, vibrant fish grazed on flower-shaped corals beneath the clear, crystal waters.
Across from Marinella beach stood a cliff face composed of limestone tinged with peach. We swam for just a moment to reach the pebble-strewn shore at their base, then cautiously ventured into the open sea caves. Above us, a group of chattering swifts darted and dived through the air.
To explore Cilento for sightseeing, consider driving up to the pastel-colored hilltop villages perched above the coastline or overlooking verdant valleys within the Vallo di Diano and Alburni National Park.
Pisciotti is an exceptionally crumbling instance, featuring vertical cliffs on every side. Make sure to stop by the family-operated Osteria del Borgo for anchovies harvested using the traditional Pisciotta technique, also referred to as menaica Arranged on toast, topped with butter and grilled zucchini.
From Castellabate, which overlooks Paestum, cascades down from a 12th-century fortress featuring a plaque inscribed with a statement made by Napoleon's brother-in-law: "Here you do not die." Together with neighboring Agropoli, you can leisurely wander through the winding streets and take a pause at vine-covered bars where you can savor a glass of red wine, secure in the belief that it benefits your health.
Visitors with extra time could venture inland for about an hour to visit the UNESCO-protected Cartuja Monastery in Padula. However, we decided to stay closer to the coast and explored Santa Maria di Castellabate, one of the area’s loveliest coastal towns. During happy hour, we observed many older residents taking leisurely walks and chatting among the series of beachside eateries, ice cream shops, and curved sandy shores. Freshly caught seafood was enjoyed as the sun dipped below the horizon at El Gatto, where fishing nets adorned the walls and meals were savored under arched stonework terraces.
Towering behind high walls, close by, lies the 17th-century Palazzo Belmonte, which was formerly an administrative hub for local farmers. A massive fig tree spreads over its stony courtyard.
In these times, it has transformed into a rustic-chic hotel featuring luxurious suites, a swimming pool, and direct access to the beach, managed by an Englishwoman who many years ago wed an Italian prince. The princess continues to stroll around the premises, greeting familiar faces as she tends to the vibrant pink bougainvillea. This serves as another instance in Cilento where a lifetime was spent remarkably well.
Essentials
EasyJet Flights from London Gatwick to Salerno Costa d'Amalfi Airport start at £57 for a round trip, and British Airways plans to launch this route in May. The Savoy Beach Hotel located in Paestum (0039 0828 720100) offers rooms for £126 per night, inclusive of breakfast; whereas Palazzo Belmonte The accommodation in Santa Maria di Castellabate (0039 0974 960211) offers double rooms for £136 per night, with prices based on bed and breakfast only.
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